Exploring scent as
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A perfumer «decides on the concentration of that ingredient in the formula – sometimes with a lot of trial and error. Concentrations can vary from 0.0001% to 100%, going through 0.0002%, 0.0003% and so on, meaning through all digits and ranges, not just in multiples of ten. For instance, in a fine fragrance, ethyl 2-methyl butyrate (2) smells watery, green and springy at concentrations around 0.01% and smells sticky fruity at concentrations around 0.2%. In a detergent formulation, one may have to multiply these concentrations by a factor of five or ten. A lily of the valley ingredient might be light, watery and not really floral at concentrations around 0.5–1.0% and might be strongly floral at concentrations around 2–10%.»

Christophe Laudamiel
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Laudamiel, C. (2010). Perfumery—The Wizardy of Volatile Molecules. In A. Herrmann (Ed.), The Chemistry and Biology of Volatiles (pp. 291–305). Wiley, p. 295.

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There are many essences of mint in perfumery – spearmint, peppermint, pennyroyal, field mint, bergamot mint – which are also used for flavouring sweets, toothpaste, chewing gum and sometimes as fragrance in household products; these different applications depreciate the emotional impact of smelling mint. The same is true of the smell of lemons which was first used as a fragrance for washing-up liquid in the United states in 1969 on a product called Joy, and went on to become an olfactory symbol for cleaning products. Since then, lemon has only rarely been used in eaux de toilette.

Jean-Claude Ellena
Source ↓

Ellena, J.-C. (2012). Diary of a Nose. Particular, p. 27.

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